Thursday, October 25, 2012

Marbled Effect Candle

This was my first attempt at a marbled effect candle. I didn't find that much useful information on making this type of candle on the Internet. Especially for making it with solid color pigments instead of the liquid. I tried a combination of the techniques I did find and ended up with the candle above. It doesn't look too bad for my first attempt.

Materials Needed

  • about 2 lbs of plain white wax (I use Yaley Premium Candle Wax with a melting point of 148 F)
  • metal candle mold
  • 2 t vybar 103
  • 2 T stearic acid
  • length of #2/0 raw wick in a square braid
  • small amount of sealing putty
  • 2 wooden skewers to hold the wick in place and for poking relief holes
  • small metal tin to melt the color pigment
  • double boiler set-up (large pot with a small amount of boiling water, about 3 inches, with the metal wax holding tin set inside)
  • an old wooden spoon for stirring
  • thermometer used only for candle making (no one wants waxy food!)
  • fragrance oil (I used lavender)
  • 3 or 4 dye pigment chips (I used turquoise) 


  1. Set up your double boiler over a medium heat. Make sure the wax chunks are roughly the same size so that they melt at the same time. In the meantime, set up your candle mold. Attach one end of the length of wick to a skewer then thread the other end through the hole at the bottom of the candle mold. If you have some available, screw in the wick with a small candle mold screw. You can usually find these with the other candle supplies. Seal the screw and wick to the bottom with the sealing putty. We don't want any leaking!
  2. When the wax has reached 175 F add your additives (the vybar, stearic acid, and fragrance). Mix well using the spoon.
    1. Always have a fire extinguisher within reach
    2. Never leave the wax unattended
    3. Use an electric heat source if possible
    4. Always use a thermometer
    5. Always use a double boiler
    6. WAX IS FLAMMABLE!!! The flashpoint of wax is 300 F. Never let your wax temperature go above 250 F. The temperature of liquid wax rises fast, please exercise caution and watch the thermometer carefully. If your wax does catch on fire NEVER throw water on it. Liquid wax acts much the same as oil and as such must be smothered. (The Mythbusters oil fire show ring a bell with anyone?)
  1. Pour the melted wax carefully into your mold container. Make sure your wick is in the center of the mold and is as straight as possible.
  2. Now here comes the boring waiting bit. When the wax begins to show signs of solidifying, melt the dye pigment in the double boiler. Using your relief hole stick (the spoon is too big) start stirring the wax in the mold. Quickly pour in the melted dye chips making sure not to stir them in very well. You don't want to mix them together very long. A few seconds should do the trick otherwise you'll just end up with a plain colored candle.
  3. Now we wait. And wait. And wait. Every hour or so check on your candle and poke relief holes if needed. When the candle is completely cool, remelt your leftover wax. You'll want to melt the wax about 5 to 10 degrees hotter than your original melt.
  4. Pour the newly melted wax into the relief holes making sure not to fill past the first fill line. Now wait again, probably overnight. In the morning or whenever cut off the wick that is attached to the skewer. Remove the putty and the wick screw and the turn the mold upside down. Your candle should slide right out. If it doesn't, put it in the fridge for a bit then try again.
  5. You can level the base of your candle by placing the candle on a cookie sheet that is resting on top of a pot of boiling water.
I hope you enjoyed my tutorial!

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